Could It Be Dairy-Free?

Much in the same way that Manhattan is NOT known for its Manhattan Clam Chowder is how strongly New England is bound to its namesake potage.

There are many things I appreciate about a good chowder, and several things that are cause for removing the positive adjective. And what becomes of those who suffer a dairy intolerance and have had to push aside these comforting, creamy concoctions? I believe I’ve found the answer to such issues.

New England clam chowder long ago became a staple that found its way past the canned soup aisle into both the refrigerated and frozen cases in the grocery, and beyond. Many restaurants to each corner of the US serve it, particularly in the colder months, despite what may be the typical year-round offering in New England states, especially along the bountiful coastal waters of the Atlantic. As the chowder’s popularity grew, so did the commercial offering which, to me, seemed to dilute the traditional recipe. It wasn’t that the bisque itself was diluted, per se, but disproportionately bulked up with the cheaper ingredients. Doing so made it more profitable for the manufacturer, but severely reduced the presence and magnitude of the star ingredient: clams.

In these commercial preparations, instead of savoring the prize morsels of the mini mollusks, I was getting mega mouthfuls of potatoes and overly large chunks of overcooked celery in a watery base that resembled gruel. I found myself similarly echoing Wendy’s 1984 “Where’s the Beef?” ad campaign, saying, “Where’s the clams?!?” I’d add to that, where’s the substance, where’s the balance, and where’s the flavor? It all seemed lost and regrettably misdirected in bland, starchy filler.

When it comes to clam chowder, I can’t say I’m a staunch purist…you wanna add bacon? Okay. Corn? I’m good with that. But, PLEASE, don’t sacrifice the beloved clams! Flavor it up with extra clam juice, and make sure to tie it all together with an adequate BALANCE, including seasonings “like you mean it!”

And I haven’t forgotten about you dairy-free folks. If you’ve had to eliminate this ocean treasure from your lives, I’d like to return it with celebration. The secret…? White beans! I prepare a base that includes a couple cans of cannellini added to a nicely seasoned roux of onions, celery, and garlic. Emulsified with vegetable broth, some dairy-free milk, and a fair amount of clam juice, this hearty recipe is elevated to a dreamy creamy that is so convincing, you would think it was made with heavy cream if you didn’t know better. While I also make a full dairy chowder recipe, I’m very fond of this dairy-free version with its reduced fat content and added protein and fiber benefit.

Whether it’s the dairy or non-dairy version, I start with bacon, but  pour off almost all of the fat after I remove the pieces for garnish. The slightly smoky flavor and tiny bits remain. Before it’s finished, I add some fire roasted corn for texture and a little sweet complement, and only one small potato, diced into very small chunks. Lots of clams, and even a pound of bite-size chunks of shrimp plump up this chowder to its former glory of which even John Winthrop would approve.

Finally, I found that, instead of serving the chowder with a dollop of sour cream for garnish, either the dairy or the dairy-free, melting a sufficient amount into the pot sends this already creamy chowder base over the edge to downright silky. The result is a well-balanced bowl of creamy, chunky, seafood savory that’ll have even the pickiest Pilgrim coming back for more. I top it off with some of those bacon pieces from the beginning of the process, and prepare myself to be warmed, comforted, and overjoyed from the inside out.

Welcome home, New England.